Two Days in Inami: Exploring an Iconic Woodworking Town
In this article, our writer shares their real experiences of a trip to Inami.
Surrounded by the mountains of southwestern Toyama Prefecture, you’ll find the small woodworking district of Inami in Nanto City. Inami’s woodworking roots date back to the Edo Period (1603-1868), and to this day wooden carvings and sculptures can be seen all around the town. But in recent years, new shops and establishments have been opening up, too, breathing new life into older buildings, creating a characteristic blend of a traditional townscape and a modern sense of style. Here is how I spent 48 hours in this unique town, and how you can, too.
Stop 1: Zuisenji Temple
Start your day where Inami’s woodworking history itself began, at Zuisenji Temple. It is said that when a Kyoto craftsman was called upon to rebuild the temple after a fire in 1762, local Inami woodworkers were so impressed by his work that they became his apprentice. From there, woodworking flourished, giving rise to Inami woodworking, or “Inami Chokoku.”
Now, you can see the original work of the Kyoto craftsman, Sanshiro Maekawa, in the dragon at the entrance, while the rest of the intricate carvings are all Inami Chokoku. You’ll find gold lacquered carvings at the main hall, and beautiful Chinese zodiac and mythological creatures carved into the second hall. This is a wonderful place to start your visit to Inami and get a feel for the craft.
Spot name: Zuisenji Temple
Address: 3050 Inami, Nanto, Toyama
Hours: 9:00 - 16:30
Fee: ¥500 (adults)
Directions: Take the Kaetsunou bus on the Shogawamachi Line to Inami Chuo, then walk five minutes
Stop 2: Walking Around Yokamachi
Walking out of the temple entrance, you’ll find yourself on Yokamachi Street. This peaceful street is full of Inami Chokoku carvings, both on the outside of the shops, and in some cases, inside for sale to take home. The street has cafés, galleries, shops, and sake shops to explore, but while you’re looking around, make sure to keep an eye out for the 31 cat statues that decorate the storefronts. These Inami Chokoku cats are hiding in some of the most peculiar places!
Spot name: Yokamachi Street
Address: Yokamachi Street, Inami, Nanto, Toyama
Stop 3: Carve Your Own Wooden Sake Cup
Here, an expert woodworker shows you how to carve your very own “guinomi” sake cup using Japanese cypress. They first show you a variety of different shapes to choose from, then explain the carving process. When you’re satisfied with the shape, you use a branding iron to stamp “Inami” onto the side.
At the end, you can take your cup to the local Wakakoma Brewery sake shop to get a tasting of their original sake.
Spot name: Wooden Sake Cup Workshop (Ki no Guinomi Zukuri)
Address for meeting place: 956-1 Inami Tourist Information Center, Yanami, Nanto, Toyama
Closed: December 28 - January 5
Capacity: 2 - 8 people
Ages: 12 years old and up
Reservations: Please book by 4pm, 3 days prior to your desired date
Directions: Take the Kaetsunou bus on the Nanto-Kanazawa Line to Zuisenji Guchi Kotsu-Hiroba bus stop, or the Komaki Line to Inami Chuo bus stop, to arrive outside the facility
Stop 4: Smoked Cuisine at nomi Restaurant
Of course, where there is woodworking, there are bound to be woodchips, and that is where nomi comes in. This elegant restaurant, set in a renovated traditional storehouse, uses leftover woodchips to smoke each of their dishes.
Their spotlight dish is the “Assorted smoked meat and fish” which features a variety of local ingredients, including highly local Nanto eggs and pork. The smoky profile gives each ingredient a new dimension, and to make it the full Inami experience, the food is even served on Inami Chokoku wooden plates.
Spot name: nomi
Address: 3-41 Honmachi, Nanto, Toyama
Hours: 18:00 - 22:30 (last order 21:30)
Closed: Mon, Tue
Directions: Take the Kaetsunou bus on the Nanto-Kanazawa Line to Inami Shogakkou Guchi bus stop, then walk two minutes
*Reservations required
Stop 5: Craft Beer at NAT.BREW
As part of the revitalization of the town, this stylish brewery opened up in 2022, offering a place to start the evening with the brewers themselves. Their flagship beer is Hey Hey Hoo, which is made with parts of the Lindera tree, an ingredient often used for tea-making in the area.
The choice of Lindera is part of their philosophy to use locally-sourced or network-sourced ingredients, focusing on farmers and connections, resulting in beers that pack a flavorful punch! The brewery bar intentionally closes at 8pm to encourage visitors to start their night here and make their way around other establishments in town – many of which serve NAT.BREW beer too.
Spot name: NAT.BREW
Address: 1721 Yamami, Nanto, Toyama
Hours: Fri, Sat 13:00-20:00, Sun 13:00-19:00
Closed: Mon - Thur (Reduced service on Sundays)
Directions: Take the Kaetsunou bus on the Shogawamachi Line to Inami Chosha Mae bus stop, then walk two minutes
Stop 6: An Energizing Stay at Bed and Craft
After a fulfilling day of exploring Inami’s woodwork and cuisine, Bed and Craft offers a unique place to rest your head. Instead of a traditional hotel, Bed and Craft’s accommodations are scattered across the town, with one central reception building. Former traditional buildings have been renovated to reflect the style of Toyama artists, such as the Toyama mountain scenery and cloud woodworking of Daichi Maekawa, or the Buddhism-inspired woodworking of Yoshisada Ishihara.
Part of the aim of Bed and Craft is to support these local artists, so each time you visit, they get a commission, and you can even buy their artworks at the shop, Ki no Mi.
Spot name: Bed and Craft
Address: 3-41 Honmachi, Nanto, Toyama
Directions: Take the Kaetsunou bus on the Komaki Line to Inami Shogakkou Guchi bus stop, then walk three minutes
Day 2: Stop 1: The Elusive Baker at Baker’s House Kubota
If you happen to be in Inami on a Tuesday, Friday, or Saturday, you’re in luck – you are one of the lucky few to be able to try the baked goods of Baker’s House Kubota. This adorable bakery opens just three days per week, and offers delightful items featuring local ingredients.
From their fluffy shokupan white bread to their cream and fruit filled pastries, you’ll have a hard time not buying out the entire store’s selection!
Spot name: Baker’s House Kubota
Address: 1713 Yamami, Nanto, Toyama
Hours: Tues, Sat 11:30-17:00, Fri 16:00-20:00
Closed: Sun, Mon, Wed, Thur
Directions: Take the Kaetsunou bus on the Shogawamachi Line to Inami Chosha Mae bus stop, then walk 2 minutes
Stop 2: Supporting Microfarms at Haiz Coffee
Spend your last moments in Inami in style at Haiz Coffee. Before opening, the founders traveled around Columbia to find the best beans and microfarms to connect with directly to make ethical and delicious farm-to-table coffee. The café has open-air seating at ground level, and indoor seating upstairs, with a glass table looking down on the storefront’s stylish industrial exterior.
The beans are roasted in-house, and you can get drip coffee, black coffee, lattes, and even a selection of baked goods that go beautifully with the earthy coffee flavors. On my visit I had their Las Palmeras latte with a brownie, and while the coffee had a mild bitterness, it was perfectly rounded by the sweetness of the milk and the brownie. If you like the coffee enough, you can even buy the beans to take home!
Spot name: Haiz Coffee Roastery
Address: 3-35 Honmachi, Nanto, Toyama
Hours: Weekdays 12:00-17:00, national holidays 11:00-18:00
Closed: Wednesday
Directions: Take the Kaetsunou bus on the Shogawamachi Line to Inami Chosha Mae bus stop, then walk 2 minutes
During my two-day trip to Inami, I not only got a real sense of the woodworking traditions of this historic town, but also a sense of the style and modernity that its newer establishments have to offer. While the town is certainly peaceful, it is full of character and makes a great change of pace to typical city breaks. During your travels around Japan, I hope you consider a visit to Inami for something a bit different!