Walk Along the Historic Zuisenji Temple and Yokamachi Dori (Inami, Nanto City)

Inami, in Nanto City, is a small town located in the southwestern part of Toyama Prefecture, and in 2018, it was designated as a Japanese heritage site as "Inami: A Wood Carving Art Gallery Born from the Temple Carver’s Chisel.'' The history of Inami woodcarving goes back 250 years. It is said that the temple carpenters who were dispatched from Kyoto to build Inami Betsuin Zuisenji Temple passed on the techniques to local people, resulting in its development. Currently, about 200 carvers live in Inami, mainly on Yokamachi Dori, which leads to Zuisenji Temple, and here they protect their craft.
 

●Via train to Takaoka
From Takaoka Station on the Hokuriku Shinkansen Line or Takaoka Station on the Ainokaze Toyama Railway, take the World Heritage Bus (Kaetsuno Bus) or the Shogawa Komakientei Line for about 70 minutes and get off at "Inami Chuo” bus stop.

●Via the JR Johana Line
Take the Nanto City Bus (Nan Bus) from Fukuno Station, Fukumitsu Station, or Johana Station, and get off at “Zuisenji-mae Kotsu Hiroba.”

*Closed on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays

●Via Car from Toyama Kitokito Airport
Use the expressway from Toyama IC (Toyama Interchange) on the Hokuriku Expressway, and get off at the Tonami IC. Then, take the local road and arrive in about 15 minutes.＜Nearby Parking＞
・Inami Kotsu Hiroba Parking Lot (Available from 8:30 am to 4:30 pm)
Normal Cars: 210 yen

●Via bus from Kanazawa Station
From Kanazawa Station on the JR Hokuriku Main Line, take the Kaetsuno Railway on Nanto Kanazawa Line for about 90 minutes and get off at the "Kotsu Hiroba” bus stop.
 

The temple’s current main hall was built in 1885 and is one of the largest wooden temple buildings in the Hokuriku region. The Taishido Hall, on the other hand, was completed in 1918 to become one of the largest wooden buildings in Japan. The Taishido Hall particularly demonstrates the excellent skills of Inami carpenters and carvers. Among its various components, the elaborate "tabasami" supporting the roof, said to have been carved from a single piece of wood, stands out.

The temple’s main gate (Sanmon Gate), standing at 17 meters high and 20 meters wide, is made entirely of zelkova wood that has been wonderfully carved with dragons and heavenly maidens. Even the signs pointing visitors to fire hydrants and restrooms in the temple complex are the works of Inami wood carvers.
 

The temple’s current main hall was built in 1885 and is one of the largest wooden temple buildings in the Hokuriku region. The Taishido Hall, on the other hand, was completed in 1918 to become one of the largest wooden buildings in Japan. The Taishido Hall particularly demonstrates the excellent skills of Inami carpenters and carvers. Among its various components, the elaborate "tabasami" supporting the roof, said to have been carved from a single piece of wood, stands out.

The temple’s main gate (Sanmon Gate), standing at 17 meters high and 20 meters wide, is made entirely of zelkova wood that has been wonderfully carved with dragons and heavenly maidens. Even the signs pointing visitors to fire hydrants and restrooms in the temple complex are the works of Inami wood carvers.
 

"Teramachi General Store," located in front of Zuisenji Temple’s main gate (Sanmon Gate), sells products that show the charms of Zuisenji Temple and Inami’s wood carving. Accessories with wooden beads are handmade by Inami carvers using old trees from Zuisenji Temple (orders required). There’s also a picture book that introduces the history of Zuisenji Temple in an easy-to-understand manner, and tenugui towels designed with the pattern of Shakunyo Shonin’s robes. They also serve take-out coffee brewed using beans from a nearby roaster.
 

Yokamachi Dori, which stretches in front of the gates of Zuisenji Temple, is lined with carving workshops, breweries, and souvenir shops, and the townhouses with lattice doors and cobblestone streets create a quaint scenery. We recommend taking a leisurely walk while checking out the shops scattered about. The entire town is decorated with wooden carvings unique to the town, such as carved wooden zodiac animals and nameplates on the eaves, and wooden signboards and carved wooden bus stops on the streets.
 

On Yokamachi Dori, you’ll find carved wooden cats relaxing in various places, such as under eaves and by windows. They are, of course, the works of Inami carvers as well. Each of the cats is unique, with one pouring a drink as another takes a nap. Maps showing where all the carved wooden cats are can be found at various places and shops on Yokamachi Dori, so you can have fun walking around looking for them. As there are about 30 cats, try to find as many as you can!
 

There are many carver’s workshops on Yokamachi Dori that you can tour. "To,” which is located near Zuisenji Temple, is the workshop of the carver To Ikeda, and it is filled with the aroma of wood. The workshop can be found in the back of the space where his works are exhibited and sold, and here he uses 200 to 300 chisels to carve wood.
"Wood carving in the Inami technique consists of using only chisels, without relying on other tools, to create a glossy finish,” says Ikeda. He creates many works with animal and plant motifs, and he says he often uses his cat as a model.
 

There are several restaurants on and around Yokamachi Dori where you can stop by for lunch. Matsuya, established in 1912, is known for its tempura of seasonal wild and common vegetables, which are served in sets with hand-pulled soba noodles.
It is housed in a 160-year-old renovated private house with Japanese-style wooden latticed windows, allowing customers to enjoy their meal while watching the people passing by on Yokamachi Dori. The owner is self-taught in the art of hand-pulled soba noodles and makes three types: sarashina, nihachi, and inaka.
 

Inaka Manju from “Inaka Manju Yoshimura” is a standard souvenir in Inami which will soon be celebrating 60 years since its release. Reflecting the appearance of the first snowfall on the mountains, the thin white dough reveals a generous amount of sweet bean paste wrapped inside.

Mr. Yoshimura, the third-generation owner who created the Inami Manju, says, "To make it mildly sweet, we use only rock candy to cook the azuki beans.” Tea is also served to those who dine at the shop. The shop is decorated with unique sculptures such as a three-dimensional sculpture and Karakuri puppets.